The Food Maven Diary
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Personal Appearances, I Cook As I Please
I just got a message from Amazon.com that since I bought this book and that book, maybe I would be interested in buying “The Southern Italian Table” by Arthur Schwartz, due out from Clarkson Potter on October 20. That was nice. I should add that it is not only Amazon that will be ready to ship the book next Tuesday. Jessica’s Biscuit (www.ecookbooks.com) is featuring it, and the chain stores, Barnes & Noble and Borders, should be shelving the book that day. I also know that both Chef Central stores, in Paramus, NJ, and in Hartsdale, NY, will be stocking the book in preparation for my demonstrations (and signings) in those stores on October 22 and 23, respectively. Check Maven’s Appearances for the details. The demos start at 7 p.m., but I am sure to be there at least an hour earlier to set up, meet and greet.
AT THE WATER’S EDGE WITH JOAN HAMBURG
On Monday, October 19, from 3 to about 6 p.m., my former “radio wife,” Joan Hamburg, with me as her guest, will be recording her WOR radio show at The Water’s Edge, the glamorous restaurant in Long Island City facing the Manhattan skyline. Although I’m told the seats are filling fast, you can still reserve a place by calling the restaurant at 718-482-0033.
The event starts with a cocktail hour with passed hors d’oeuvre and an open bar. While Joan records her program, you’ll be seated for dinner, a three-course menu with wine featuring an entrée choice of grilled sirloin steak, seared chicken breast or soy-glazed salmon; of course appetizer and dessert, too. It costs $59.95, including tax and tip. There is valet parking.
The program that is being taped on Oct. 19 will air on October 23 between noon and 2 p.m. I will be on the air for the first half hour of the show. I’ll be at the Water’s Edge early enough to get a stiff drink.
I COOK AS I PLEASE
Without a book project to work on I am free to cook as I please. I mean I don’t have to test recipes. I don’t have to cook only Southern Italian food (the upcoming book), or Yiddish food (the last book), or NYC food (the book before that). I am cooking things I want to eat, not things I need to write about.
There’s a big overlap there, as I would never write a book about food I didn’t want to eat – and cook – so, yes, a couple of nights ago I made pasta with butternut squash and sausage, which is in the upcoming “The Southern Italian Table,” and I recently made a big batch of vegetarian chopped liver, which is a recipe form “Jewish Home Cooking.” To break the fast on Yom Kippur, at my sister’s request, I made a Blackout Cake, Ebinger’s style, a recipe from “Arthur Schwartz’s New York City Food.” I am embarrassed to say it did not turn out well. Don’t ask! I ended up turning it into a Blackout Trifle, alternating broken chocolate cake layers and chocolate pudding in a footed triffle bowl. I considered adding some preserved sour cherries, to make it a Black Forest Trifle, but I am glad I didn’t. I found out my sister doesn’t like preserved cherries. I served it with plenty of whipped cream. No one complained.
I’ve been cooking favorite recipes from my past, too. I recently baked Laurie Colwin’s spice cake (largely nutmeg), which is on my website (http://thefoodmaven.com/diary/00000212.html) with the great story that is behind it. I hadn’t made that in years, but a reader told me she uses it as a base for carrot cake and I figured I should try that variation. With the extra moisture of the carrots, it was too pudding-like for my taste, but I love the original cake. I’m on a mini Caesar Salad jag --the original 1929 recipe is on The Food Maven, too -- http://thefoodmaven.com/diary/00000613.html. I’ve been sautéing red bell peppers at least a couple nights a week, before the season is over. Some nights I do them plain, some nights with onions. One night I sautéed them with garlic, capers and Gaeta olives. And I’ve made babaganoush several times recently. It keeps in the refrigerator for several days, if not a week, and I love it as an afternoon snack on high-fiber flatbread.
The eggplants in the market come in so many shapes and variations of purple that I’ve been buying them just to look at them in a big glass bowl, then, well, you’ve got to cook them before they get old. All you do is bake them in a 450-degree oven until they collapse and ooze. Reemember to prick some holes in the eggplant, otherwise they will explode in the oven. Then scrape the flesh off the skins (discard skins), beat the eggplant pulp it well (by hand with a fork), stirring in a little tahini (sesame seed paste), crushed garlic, salt, and lemon juice.
Following is a Turkish leek dish that I love, and when I saw leeks at a good price in the market, I couldn’t help but run home and prepare them.
TURKISH BRAISED LEEKS
Serves 4 as an appetizer (among others) or a side dish
A friend asked me what makes these Turkish. The answer is everything. This is the way Turkish cooks prepare any number of vegetables, including artichokes and, more to the current season, green beans. An old-fashioned Turk would use much more oil than I do, and likely more sugar. But go by your own taste, and use your judgment. As I said, I am feeling free to cook as I please. Why not you?
3 large leeks, white and light green only (about 1 pound without greens)
1 medium carrot
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup water
Juice of 1/2 lemon, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 tablespoons raw rice
Cut the leeks cross-wise into 3/4 to 1-inch pieces. Wash very well without breaking apart the pieces.
(Note: Inspect the leeks before cutting them. Some leeks will harbor a lot of sand. Look between the top green leaves to see if this is the case. If so, it may be necessary to cut the leeks in half lengthwise first, to wash the sand out between the layers. In that case, the leeks will fall apart in the pan, but they will still be very delicious.)
In a pan (with cover) large enough to hold the vegetables in more or less one layer – a pan with an 8 to 10-inch bottom – combine the leeks, carrot and oil. Place over medium heat. As soon as the vegetables begin to sizzle, turn them in the oil, lower the heat to very low, cover the pan and let cook for 30 minutes, stirring once or twice. Moisture will accumulate in the pan. Do not add any at this point.
After 30 minutes, add the water, lemon juice, sugar and salt. Stir well. Sprinkle on the rice, stir again, cover again, then cook over medium-low heat for about 18 minutes, until the rice is soft and the juices in the pan have thickened.
Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
NOTE: The recipe is easily doubled, but use only 4 tablespoons of oil, at most, 1/2 cup additional water, and only 3 tablespoons of rice. Adjust the seasoning – double the salt, use about 3/4 teaspoon sugar, but wait until the leeks are fully cooked before adding more sugar and salt than that, and more lemon juice.
