The slaughterhouses used to be in this now-gentrifying neighborhood of old Rome, and the restaurants here specialize in what Romans call “the fifth quarter,” innards such as tripe and intestines. Romans have a passion for them. At night, the neighborhood is bustling with young people going to clubs, and all ages and classes of Romans going to the restaurants. During the day, the indoor market is a great attraction. It’s actually a much better market than the outdoor Campo de’ Fiori, and well-worth a late morning stroll before eating in the neighborhood.

Trattoria Da “Oio” a Casa Mia
Via Galvani, 43-45
Tel. 06.57.82.680

This small restaurant, only a few blocks from the marvelous Testaccio food market, is a fine, if not famous place to eat the “fifth quarter” specialties. What I will always return for, however, is the fabulously rich spaghetti alla carbonara. It’s a hard choice, though: Also excellent are the tonnarelli cacio e pepe – thick, spaghetti-length pasta with pecorino and pepper, the rigatoni all’Amatriciana, and, for those who do, indeed, like offal, the rigatoni with pajata -- intestines. They are not nearly as funky as you would imagine, or perhaps even wish they were. A very stylish crowd has discovered this small, unprepossessing trattoria, and they dote, too, on the roast baby lamb, the Roman-style chicken alla cacciatora, which is chicken braised with rosemary and white wine and no tomatoes (I highly recommend it), and the excellent straccetti, paper thin slices of beef very quickly sautéed and served with wild rucola (arugula) salad. Though the menu offers English translations, the “in” crowd is totally Italian. By the way, “Oio” is the nickname of the chef/owner. He’s big man, so he’s called Olly, after Oliver Hardy. He pops out of his small kitchen once in a while, to greet regulars and friends. It is his fabulously brassy wife who runs the dining room with skill. Moderate.